What is the best Mexican restaurant in Dublin?

by: El Michelín 

Before coming to Ireland, I was a psychotherapist. I had a consulting office that I really liked, with two sofas, a couch, a desk with a lamp, and a bookshelf full of books on psychoanalysis, literature, and essays. Next to the patient's sofa, there was a small table with tissues. I worked with adults, teenagers, and sometimes children. One of my first patients was a five-year-old boy who displayed erratic behavior according to school standards. His mother, a young woman concerned about her son's emotional well-being, brought him twice a week. Sometimes they arrived a bit late, and I could hear my patient rushing up the stairs—my office was on the third floor—ringing the bell frantically to open the door.

 

(Image.1 My first books when I started giving psychotherapy) 

  

In my master's degree, I learnt that play therapy helps access a patient’s unconscious fantasies, with the therapist becoming part of that fantasy. With my young patient, we would play with modeling clay, build houses, and create scenarios with dolls representing different roles. He took the lead as the director, while I acted out the roles. This approach was beneficial as it allowed children to express their emotions in a safe environment.

However, one of the biggest challenges in child psychotherapy was not the children themselves but their parents. When parents noticed their kids were happier and started to "behave well" in school, they often decided therapy was no longer needed and stopped bringing them. Another common issue was parents wanting to see immediate progress, treating therapy like a competition or a race. Some understood that the therapeutic process is not about quick results, but others insisted on additional sessions to discuss specific advancements. Sometimes, parents just needed to be listened to as they felt distressed, while in other cases, they demanded proof of their children’s improvement, even asking for a rating from 1 to 10.

Parents’ questioning can stem from different perspectives. One viewpoint is the traditional logic of learning that I learnt when I was a kid, which sees development as a linear progression with stages to overcome for achieving full mental health. From this perspective, misbehavior in school is seen as a sign of distress, and completing therapy means children will behave well, achieve high grades, and excel in their classes. However, this mentality also reflects the everyday lives of adults. In Western society, the concepts of advancing, progressing, and reaching goals are prominent in our individual lives. Experiencing setbacks—like losing a job, ending a relationship, moving back in with parents, or going to therapy—are often viewed as failures. In this capitalist framework, failure is not an option. From a social perspective, individuals often feel pressured to meet work expectations, showcase their best selves in personal relationships, and maintain a positive, motivated demeanor. They face intense competition to be the best in both their jobs and relationships. This self-imposed pressure is also evident in gastronomy, where only a few achieve success while many remain excluded and overlooked.

In our Dinner with Art events, a recurring question arises: What is the best Mexican restaurant in Dublin? While the intent is to explore other culinary offerings with Mexican influences, this question marks a turning point. One can respond by naming restaurants or reflect on how rankings reinforce inequalities. Comparing one culinary proposal to another is akin to comparing one patient to another. Moreover, these rankings are easily accessible on Google; for example, Lovin Dublin publishes "Top 10 Mexican Restaurants in Dublin Worth Taco’s About," while a blog called Irish Road Trip mentions "12 Places that Dish up the Best Mexican Food in Dublin."

Recently, the ranking phenomenon has evolved, now seeking not just a "top 10" or "top 5," but "The Best" place. On her Instagram account, a content creator asks rapid-fire questions like: What is the best pub in Dublin? Best restaurant in Dublin? Best coffee place in Dublin? During these brief interviews, many guests struggle to name just one spot, often citing several favorites. Nevertheless, the interviewer encourages them to pick only one. Amid nervous laughter, interviewees feel pressured to make a decision, as it seems to be part of the game.

In El Idiota Gastronómico, Iñaki Martínez critiques the way gastronomy has been portrayed and promoted in recent decades. According to him, the dominant focus has placed chefs, restaurants, and dishes at the forefront, treating them almost like rock stars. This phenomenon has been fueled by both food critics and content creators, transforming gastronomy into a media spectacle. Martínez notes that narratives around haute cuisine often highlight the chef—typically a white European male skilled in French or Italian cooking—as the genius behind each culinary creation. This perspective overlooks the many individuals essential to a restaurant's functioning, including the kitchen team, service staff, suppliers, and producers. Restaurants are collective creations.

 

(Image 2. El Idiota Gastronómico by Iñaki Martinez) 

 

Martínez argues that rankings promote superficial competition based not on the quality of food but on meeting standards and following trends. Content creators and critics present their own lists based on trends and the "exotic" nature of dishes. The pricier a dish, the more complex and exclusive the experience is perceived to be. Recently, a well-known Irish food critic posted on Instagram about a new high-end Mexican restaurant. As users viewed images of the restaurant, a flamenco guitar song played in the background. This cultural contradiction raises the question: Was it an oversight, or does it reflect a thoughtful critical perspective?

This type of ranking and review has clear implications for the gastronomy industry. Small restaurants and new ventures lacking resources and connections to influencers find themselves at a disadvantage, unable to compete with large chains or high-end restaurants that dominate the top lists. These more accessible local spaces often fall under the radar while a select group garners media and public attention.

Rankings simplify this complexity by categorizing restaurants in lists that promote superficial competition. This approach excludes valuable gastronomic experiences that don't fit the mold of what is deemed "successful." Just as some parents want their children to be the "best" patients, always exemplary, gastronomic rankings impose a standard that ignores the uniqueness of each place.

From the perspective of play therapy, the tool of play is essential for self-understanding, allowing for the expression of fantasies and emotions. In therapy, the play space offers the freedom to explore and experiment without judgment. Similarly, gastronomy should be explored based on the diner's ability to create their own experiences, free from the constraints of superficial reviews and ratings that place the chef  at the center of attention. Through play, exchange, and the various scenarios that a dining experience presents, the customer takes on multiple roles, allowing them to represent, transform, and question their own relationship with food and all its components.